On the trail of Dutugemunu — 3 things to look out for at Dematamal Vihara

The backstory

Based on archeological evidence, the Dematamal Vihara is thought to predate the christian era, and is perhaps the oldest non-cave temple in the kingdom of Ruhuna. Prince Tissa sought refuge under the bed of the chief prelate at this temple after having lost the battle for the throne with his brother Prince Gemunu at Yudaganawa. 

The victorious prince had the temple surrounded , but didn’t touch his brother, but ridiculed him as he was carried away in the guise of a deceased monk from the premises.

Dematamal Vihara

This ancient temple is located in Buttala, in the district of Moneragala in eastern Sri Lanka. It is right by the side of the main Buttala-Okkampitiya road. It dates back to the 2 BC and is surrounded by lush paddy fields, which were originally 6 acres in extent. 

1. The stupa

The unplastered brick stupa is upon a platform that is 2.35m high. It is unusual to see a cheitya rise this much above the other buildings in a temple complex, but it is presumed that it was positioned thus so that it will be visible from afar in the completely flat environ that the temple is on. 

The stupa of the temple has been constructed on a raised platform, so that it will stand out in the surrounding flat plain.

2. Guardstone with two figures

The foundation and ruins of a small building is to be found in the paddy fields beyond the ancient chapter house. While the entrances of all ancient buildings in the country have guardstones placed on either side of the entrance, the guardstone to the left of the entrance to this structure is one of just 4 that have a female figure carved in to it, in addition to the usual male naga figure. The nagini stands to the right of the naga figure and is a few inches shorter than him. 

The remains of a building beyond the main temple, close to the paddy fields, where the rare guardstone with 2 figures is to be found. 

The Nagini on the left, and the Naga guard on the right. Only 4 such guardstones have been found in Sri Lanka.

3. The new chapter house

Only the tall foundation of the original chapter house remains to be seen today. It is believed that the infamous bed of the chief prelate of this temple where Prince Tissa hid underneath was to be found in this building. 
A new chapter house has been constructed upon this same stone foundation since then. But based on the pillars, statues and other stone items found there and in its vicinity, there is little doubt about the original structure that stood here. 

* Pictures © Radhika Wijesekera, 2018 (Buttala, Sri Lanka)

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